Anvils for knife making: what to buy and what to avoid
For knife making, a blacksmith anvil needs a hard, flat face and plenty of mass under the hammer. It doesn't need to be huge or pretty. A piece of rail stood on end will forge your first blades. A 50 kg (110 lb) or heavier cast-steel or forged anvil will last a lifetime of hobby work.
What you must avoid is the cheap cast-iron "anvil-shaped object" (ASO). It looks right, but the face dents and chips, and it soaks up the energy of every blow.
This guide covers improvised anvils, which new brands are worth buying, how to check a used anvil with a rebound test, what weight to aim for, and how to set it up at the right height.
Blacksmith anvils at a glance
| Option | Typical cost | Pros | Cons | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rail, sledge head or steel block | £0–50 | Cheap; surprisingly effective on end | Small face; needs a solid mount | Great first anvil |
| Cast iron ASO | Cheap | Looks like an anvil | Soft or brittle face; poor rebound | Don't buy |
| Cast steel (Vevor, Happybuy and similar) | ~$90–290 | Affordable; usable for knife work | Quality varies; check weight and finish | OK starter if cast steel |
| Drop-forged budget (Kanca) | $475 for 35 kg | Forged steel; proper shape | Lighter sizes are small for heavy work | Good buy |
| UK-made / UK-sold new | ~£190–400+ | UK stock; no import charges | Few current verified prices | Good if you can't find used |
| Premium new (Peddinghaus, Refflinghaus) | High; UK prices not found | Excellent face and rebound | Cost | Buy once |
| Used anvil | Varies; UK full-size about £400+ | Best value per kg if sound | Damage, repairs, fakes | Best buy if you check it |
Sources for prices are given in each section. Old forum prices are marked as such.
What weight of anvil do you need for knife making?
Heavier is better, up to the point where you can't move it. BLADE Magazine's starter guide suggests at least 125–150 lb (57–68 kg) for a knife-making anvil (BLADE). Another maker's guide says 150 lb (68 kg) suits most people, and warns against very heavy anvils you can't shift (Salt in My Coffee).
In practice:
- Under 20 kg (44 lb): too light as a main anvil. It bounces and moves under a forging hammer. A 10 kg anvil is a jewellery or bench tool.
- 20–50 kg (44–110 lb): workable for knife-sized stock if it's well mounted and the steel is good.
- 50–100 kg (110–220 lb): the sweet spot for most knife makers.
- Over 100 kg: great if you find one at a fair price, but not necessary for blades.
Mass under the hammer matters more than total weight. That's why rail on end works so well, and why a long, thin horn adds weight without adding much useful mass.
Can you use a railroad track or a sledgehammer head as an anvil?
Yes, and plenty of good smiths started that way.
Rail on end puts about half the rail directly under the blow. A 28" (710 mm) piece weighs around 100 lb (45 kg) and is said to react like a much heavier anvil because most of its mass sits under the hammer. Even a 10–12" (250–300 mm) piece on a stump, at 30–40 lb, is said to act like an anvil of about twice that weight (anvilfire). Lying flat, rail is springy and much less effective.
Rail is a medium-high carbon steel, so if you weld it, preheat it and let it cool slowly (anvilfire). UK forum estimates put a length of rail at about £50 (BushcraftUK).
Other improvised anvils (iForgeIron; iForgeIron):
- A sledgehammer head (a 14–20 lb / 6–9 kg head) set face-up in a log.
- A thick block of steel from a scrapyard or stockholder.
- In principle, any solid steel block will serve as a first anvil.
More in railroad track anvils.
Why should you avoid cast iron anvils (ASOs)?
Cast iron is brittle and much softer than a hardened steel face. Cheap new cast-iron anvils are "brittle or soft", dent under hot steel, and chip at the edges (BushcraftUK). They also absorb the blow instead of returning it, so you work harder for less.
How to spot one:
- The listing says "cast iron", or the price per kg is far below cast-steel anvils of the same size. Vevor, for example, sells both: choose the cast-steel models.
- Poor rebound. A ball bearing barely bounces (see the test below).
- A dull clunk when struck, and chips or dents in the face of a "new" anvil.
Rail is often a better first anvil than a cast-iron ASO.
Which new anvil brands are worth buying?
Cast steel: budget but usable
Vevor's cast-steel anvils are the cheapest new option most people will find. Listing prices on vevor.com in Oct 2026 were 66 lb $131.90, 110 lb $230.90 and 132 lb $289.90 (Vevor). Lowe's had them from $89.99 in Sept 2025. The listing claims 50 HRC; one buyer called them better than Harbor Freight cast iron but said quality "may depend on the day" (Slickdeals).
Vevor single horn cast steel anvil (66–132 lb)
Pros
- Cast steel
- hardy and pritchel holes
- several weights
Cons
- Variable finish and hardness
- edges and face may need dressing
- avoid the cast-iron versions sold alongside
Verdict: A sensible starter in 110 lb or heavier. Check the listing says cast steel.
Other budget brands such as Happybuy 20 kg steel anvil exist, with buyer reports of soft faces on cheap anvils. At that weight, rail on end may serve you as well.
Drop-forged: a step up
Kanca drop-forged anvil, 35 kg (77 lb)
Pros
- Drop-forged steel
- two horns
- Blacksmiths Depot says it is identical to the Durlach/Peddinghaus Handwerks anvil except the name
Cons
- 35 kg is light for heavy forging
- US and EU sellers only in our research
Verdict: Good value for knife work. Buy the heaviest you can afford.
Sources: Blacksmiths Depot; Toolbrothers. Blacksmiths Depot is a US company in North Carolina, not a UK seller.
UK-made and UK-sold anvils
Premium
Peddinghaus (also sold as the Ridgid 69622) and Refflinghaus sit at the top end. The Ridgid 77 lb is praised for build and rebound (ShopSavvy). A new Refflinghaus was about $8/lb in a 2017 thread (iForgeIron). Worth it if you'll forge for decades. Not needed to make good knives.
How do you check a used anvil?
A sound used anvil is often the best value per kilo. Old British, American and German anvils turn up at auctions, farm sales and online. Bring a ball bearing, a tape measure and a small hammer.
The rebound (ball bearing) test
- Use a steel ball bearing of ½–1" (12–25 mm); 1" is better.
- Hold it 10" (250 mm) above the face and let it drop under its own weight. Don't throw it.
- Measure how high it bounces. A 9" bounce is 90%.
- Test several spots, especially the sweet spot in the middle of the face.
A guide for beginners says "good anvils will have 90% or greater rebound" (Salt in My Coffee). In one forum test with a 1" ball from 10", a Trenton returned 90–95% and a Fisher 65–70% (iForgeIron).
Results drop with a soft (mild steel) ball, a dirty or pitted face, cracks, or a delaminated face plate. Compare anvils using the same ball. A hammer bounce test is less consistent because your arm adds or absorbs force (iForgeIron).
The ring test
Tap the face lightly with a hammer along its length. A sudden change to a dull or rattling sound in one area can mean a loose or delaminated face plate. Don't judge on ring alone, though: sound depends on how an anvil is built and mounted, and a quiet anvil can still be a good one. Rebound tells you more.
Visual checklist
- Face: flat and smooth; no deep pitting, gouges, cracks or a dip worn into it (sway) (iForgeIron; Salt in My Coffee).
- Face plate: no lifting or separation at the edges of the plate on older two-piece anvils.
- Edges: some chipping is normal; large chunks missing reduce usable face.
- Repairs: look for weld beads or ground areas on the face. Ask about them.
- Hardy and pritchel holes: square and clean.
- Fire damage: ask whether the anvil has been through a building fire, which may have affected the face (iForgeIron).
Light rust wire-brushes off. Pitting doesn't (Salt in My Coffee). Be wary of anvils whose face has been heavily ground or milled flat, as that removes hardened steel.
What should a used anvil cost?
Prices vary a lot by country and year. US forum figures from 2017 were about $2–3/lb asking, with auction prices sometimes $6–8/lb (iForgeIron, 2017). A UK forum estimate put a good full-size used anvil at £400+ plus delivery (undated) (BushcraftUK).
How tall should your anvil be, and what should it sit on?
Stand next to the anvil with your arm hanging straight and a hammer held upright in your fist. Your knuckles should just touch the face (Salt in My Coffee). Too low and you'll bend your back; too high and you lose power.
The stand must not wobble, and the anvil should be fixed to it so they move as one (Salt in My Coffee). Common options:
- A hardwood stump, cut square, end grain up.
- A fabricated steel stand, often three-legged so it sits firmly on an uneven floor.
- A box or tube stand filled with sand, which also quietens the anvil.
Fix the anvil with chain, bolts or brackets. A loud anvil can be quietened with a magnet or chain on the base or horn; your ears and neighbours will thank you.
FAQs
What size anvil do I need for knife making?
Aim for 50 kg (110 lb) or more if you can. BLADE Magazine suggests at least 125–150 lb (57–68 kg). Lighter anvils work for knife-sized stock if they're good steel and solidly mounted, but anything under about 20 kg tends to bounce and move under a forging hammer.
Is a cheap anvil worth buying?
A cheap cast-steel anvil can be a reasonable start. A cheap cast-iron anvil isn't: the face is soft or brittle and rebound is poor. Read the listing for "cast steel" and check the weight. If the choice is between a cast-iron ASO and a length of rail on end, take the rail.
How can you tell if an anvil is cast iron?
The listing often says so, and the price is very low for the weight. A ball bearing dropped from 10" will bounce poorly, the anvil sounds dull, and the face dents or chips easily. A good steel-faced anvil returns most of the ball's drop height.
What is a good rebound for an anvil?
About 90% or more is excellent, meaning a ball dropped from 10" bounces back 9". Many usable anvils score lower. In one forum test a Trenton returned 90–95% and a Fisher 65–70%. Use the same hard steel ball for every anvil you compare.
Can I use a railroad track as an anvil?
Yes. Stand it on end so the hammer blow goes down the length of the rail, and mount it solidly. A 28" piece weighs about 100 lb and works well for knife-sized stock. Never take rail from a working railway; buy offcuts from scrap dealers or stockholders.
How high should an anvil be?
Set the face at knuckle height: stand beside it with your arm hanging and a hammer held upright, and your knuckles should just touch the face. Adjust for how you work. Bladesmiths doing fine work sometimes prefer it slightly higher.
Sources
- https://blademag.com/knifemaking/how-much-money-do-you-need-to-start-making-knives
- https://saltinmycoffee.com/choose-the-best-anvil/
- https://anvilfire.com/FAQs/RR-rail_anvils.htm
- https://bushcraftuk.com/community/threads/blacksmith-tool-question.160340/
- https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/32171-how-can-i-start-blacksmithing-for-under-03650/
- https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/79816-what-are-the-most-essential-blacksmith-tools-for-a-beginner-forge-setup/
- https://www.vevor.com/cast-steel-anvil-c_10827/single-horn-anvil-116lbs-cast-steel-anvil-round-horn-anvil-for-blacksmiths-p_010723258162
- https://slickdeals.net/f/18606745-lowe-s-vevor-steel-blacksmith-anvils-66lb-to-132lb-from-89-99-up-to-44-off-free-store-pickup
- https://blacksmithsdepot.com/kanca-anvil-77-lbs
- https://toolbrothers.de/en/products/kanca-anvil-20-kg-4000830665
- https://forged-ironmongery.co.uk/product/the-new-anyang-st-power-hammer/
- https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21878-looking-for-a-new-small-anvil-uk/
- https://hswalsh.com/product/anvil-25kg-single-bick-type-ta161
- https://shopsavvy.com/reviews-tldr/ridgid-69622-anvil
- https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/52864-what-should-i-be-paying-for-a-london-pattern-anvil/
- https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/57673-some-thoughts-on-rebound-ball-bearing-test/